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Question(s) Thread

Discussion in 'Beginner's Corner' started by M4R, Apr 17, 2017.

  1. ltr74

    ltr74 FRP H-Bar

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    Roscoe's problem at the start was likely not sliding damper related. From the start, his car was dipping to the left causing problems. Likely the front or rear left under guard/brake was hitting before the right side causing it to drag a bit giving inconsistent jumps. The fast corner right before the slope would make that more of a problem as the car has little space to straighten out. On the other slope wth several straights before the slope, the car would straighten out a bit and still likely tilt a bit but still be okay.

    Though I find it interesting he did not play with front mass dampers much. A heavier car will jump a shorter distance and can be really helpful with those table tops and keeping the car low enough that it sticks in the channel better.

    But yes, every track is different. Some people build multiple cars and race many of them each race day trying to find the best one. . I am working on a different route. I have 4 different front roller setups, 3 front under guards, 3 rear roller setups and 2 rear under guards all prepped and ready to try on tracks. Depending on the obstacles, I will change entire front and rear ends of the car. It's quicker and easier to have them all prepped. 2 screws and the whole front end is changed.
     
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  2. Reuben Herries

    Reuben Herries Spacer

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    Catapult effect!! ha ha ha that was me on my last race!! not even sure what happened but it was spectacular!!
    Thanks and I will have a look.
     
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  3. Marlim

    Marlim Box Kit

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    Hello guys, newbie here. If I want to focus on Tuned Class, is it better to get the starter pack + spare parts or the MS chassis Evo 1? Thanks!
     
  4. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I'd recommend getting the blast arrow starter kit then go from there. You'll then need to look at upgrading frp plates further, change brake and rollers. But it will give you a good, solid base to work on.
     
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  5. Marlim

    Marlim Box Kit

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    Thanks!
     
  6. Chocoshot

    Chocoshot Box Kit

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    Hello im new to mini 4wd racing and i have a ma. I was wondering what parts to get for my car to be at least somewhat of entry level. Hope you can help me tks!
     
  7. rythven

    rythven Box Kit

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    Hey guys, I'm new and looking to build a modern machine that's more for looks and style. Is it okay to put on a different body frame on a chassis if it fits or do you have to pair them?

    I was thinking of getting rodeo sonic MS chassis and putting a regular sonic saber (superII) frame on it. Also I will definitely be stopping by DXN next time I'm in CA
     
  8. tarutaru

    tarutaru Washer

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    Unless you plan on racing in box stock, you are ok with mixing bodies on both tuned and open class.
     
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  9. rythven

    rythven Box Kit

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    It seems most racers suggest a specific charge/discharge procedure for nimh batteries while a quick google search would advise completely the opposite. And will delta charging shorten the lifespan?
     
  10. apaulo.bay

    apaulo.bay Screw

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    Whats the benefit of using 9-8mm rollers and when do you use it?
     
  11. Chris

    Chris Screw

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    Smaller rollers reduce the rotating mass of you roller and should allow your car the exit the corner at a higher speed. The sacrifice is stabilizing the car in the corner.
     
  12. ltr74

    ltr74 FRP H-Bar

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    Another thing they do is interact with digital turns differently. a 9mm roller will hit deeper in the angle slowing the car more. Sometimes this is desirable like in the 2019 Japan Cup layout, sometimes you want to run 19mm to carry more speed like in the 2019 Winter GP layout.
     
  13. apaulo.bay

    apaulo.bay Screw

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    Oohh okay okay so pretty much a faster cornering and good for digi curves with the risk of stabilisation
     
  14. ltr74

    ltr74 FRP H-Bar

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    It's not necessarily good for digital turns, 9/8mm just slows the car more in digital turns. on the 2019 Japan cup track they had an area called the digital zone which included digital turns and digital dragon backs. The dragon backs were very difficult to go through well. There was basically a set speed that worked best. Racers devised a roller and brake system to slow the car only on the digital turn. Because of the tight tolerances, you needed to use 8/9mm rollers. This along with the digital brake slowed the car enough in just that section of track. There was also a whole lot more we were doing for that obstacle, but the small roller and brake was one of the key components of it.

    For tracks with just regular digital turns and no need to slow the car for an obstacle, 19mm rollers will be better as the larger diameter will roll through the digital turn easier.

    It's really a bit complicated. For the most part, I run 19mm all the way around. If there are specific obstacles than need different diameter rollers, I change. Below is my car first set up for 2019 Japan Cup, and second picture is the normal setup with 19mm in front.

    IMG_5443.jpeg 8FA55516-155C-4556-BFA2-85D800F65684 (1).jpeg
     
  15. Mrcvz

    Mrcvz Box Kit

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    Has anyone tried using/placing cap screws at the front MS-L unit for the AT bumper? I keep on getting bent screws. I cant find any tuts on the net pr maybe im looking for the wrong keywords
     
  16. ltr74

    ltr74 FRP H-Bar

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    Not really. Even if they are bent a little, the AT system will likely be smooth. The problem will be that the cap screw will stick out the bottom of the plate and causing issues with damaging the track and setting your brake correctly. You could run two plates, one of them wit the screw hole opened up so the cap head sits inside it. I run something similar but still with countersunk screws. My AT mount is separate from the under guard giving me a double stack of carbon. This has a few perks, I can easily change my under guard based on the track and I am able to angle my under guard so it more easily clears bank sections but still works on slope sections.
     
  17. yao wei

    yao wei Lock Nut

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    you can buy a tamiya hobby saw/knife
     
  18. KOBLD

    KOBLD Box Kit

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    I'm new so sorry for replying to this old comment, but I was looking at the Aero Avante starter kit, is there any technical reason I should go for the Blast Arrow instead? I mostly just like it better aesthetically, but a starter kit seems like a good place to...well...start.
     
  19. ltr74

    ltr74 FRP H-Bar

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    The Aero Avante Starter kit is good as well. They give you a good baseline to build from and the setup of rollers and brakes will put you on the right path. They do each miss a few items to make it truly a great kit, but for the price of $30, you get about $55 worth of parts that will serve you well as you upgrade them over time.
     
  20. KOBLD

    KOBLD Box Kit

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    Excellent! I'll grab one of those then, just didn't want to go for that if it was somehow significantly worse than the other one.
     

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