Discussion in 'Beginner's Corner' started by M4R, Apr 17, 2017.
I would use a high speed dermal with carbide bit. High speed light pressure.
What are the pros and cons of a ms whale set up?
Lately, it's easier to use cars with small diameter since the stability is higher. If you do the break in process properly, you can get a great speed out of 3.5:1 with small dia tires. You can even push the limit with MDP.
I didn't get that much of a difference between HDP JCUP 19 and regular HDP. I tried to break them in like probably around 20-30 motors in total with the same method and found out that the performance are similar. That's just my opinion tho.. and my break in method usually will create a high torque type of motor, but the RPM is nothing special.
ohh okay okay noted keep up the videos roscoe one of your fans
how do you speed up from the standard starting set up?
A lot of people think that motor is the only way to speed up a car and it is the quickest and easiest way. But there are many other aspects that will speed up your car, especially when you get to higher levels of competition. Cornering speed, acceleration and recovery are more important that outright top end speed.
First is you motor. A decent to good Hyper Dash will put out 29 to 30k rpm. There are variations in the manufacture and some are better than others. If a Hyper Dash is not 29k or more, it's a practice/give away motor to me. You can also occasionally go up to Mach Dash. But I've also gone the opposite and dropped to light dash and adjusted the car to carry more speed through the track and done exceptionally well.
Rollers need to spin smooth and for a decent amount of time when spun by hand. If not clean or replace the bearings until you are happy. Also, metal vs plastic ringed. Metal will be slower but more grip to keep the car in the track. Plastic ringed will be faster but bad in front because less grip may cause you to course out. The amount of roller material that hits the track also impacts the speed of the car. A thicker contact area will be slower. Reduce the roller contact with the wall along with good spinning rollers will speed up the car quite a bit.
Tires, Super Hard are standard, low friction will be faster but less grip and potential problem for steep banks and lane changers. On occasion I have run just standard hard tires for the extra acceleration over super hard. It all depends on the track. Also, running tires closer to the centerline of the chassis will speed up cornering. Offset tires are a thing some racers use.
Roller position also matters. Rollers that are closer to the center of the chassis will speed the car up through the corners
Run as little brake as you can so you just make the most difficult part of the track. This should mean you are jumping into one or more corner. If you aren't, use less brake.
Batteries, neochamp or Fujitsu pink are lighter which will help acceleration and somewhat top speed on a track.
Recovery, this is a big one. You want your car to land every jump very well with little to no bounce. You want the car to jump straight and not get hung up on the wall at all. If your car is jumps poorly and takes more time to recover, it slows down and allows others to catch up, often very quickly. Along with this is rigid vs non-rigid. A rigid setup will be faster but may not recover very well or crash out easier.
that is a lot of information to go step by step on making a car better thanks you i will apply all these information to my current machine =D
Is there an easy way to break in a motor? If there isnt whats the simplest way
1. using a slave motor. cielshock has a video about that on youtube.
2. breaking in while the motor is being submerged in lighter fluid. theres one video about that by sir Z3n Bluster on youtube as well
3. run - clean - reverse run - clean - run - clean method. basically, you just want your motor to run and curve thos carbon brushes to optimize the speed of the motor
How do you use these? do you need to cut a thread onto the shaft? I am struggling to not bend screws on my roller posts.... it seems that every other race I am bending a roller screw.
Using motor shafts for stabilizer poles is a lot of glue and fitting the shaft into plastic. I have done it but don't feel it's really worth it.
If you are bending screws, buy a set of the cap screws from Tamiya. They are hardened and are very difficult to bend. You can go a year or more without it bending. They are a little expensive but will keep your stabilizer straight for a long time.
Awesome, thanks man. they are the countersunk screws yeah? another trip to the shop!!
They are not the countersunk screws but the black cap screws. They come with a little hex wrench to use with them.
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