Discussion in 'Beginner's Corner' started by M4R, Apr 17, 2017.
I would use a high speed dermal with carbide bit. High speed light pressure.
What are the pros and cons of a ms whale set up?
Lately, it's easier to use cars with small diameter since the stability is higher. If you do the break in process properly, you can get a great speed out of 3.5:1 with small dia tires. You can even push the limit with MDP.
I didn't get that much of a difference between HDP JCUP 19 and regular HDP. I tried to break them in like probably around 20-30 motors in total with the same method and found out that the performance are similar. That's just my opinion tho.. and my break in method usually will create a high torque type of motor, but the RPM is nothing special.
ohh okay okay noted keep up the videos roscoe one of your fans
how do you speed up from the standard starting set up?
A lot of people think that motor is the only way to speed up a car and it is the quickest and easiest way. But there are many other aspects that will speed up your car, especially when you get to higher levels of competition. Cornering speed, acceleration and recovery are more important that outright top end speed.
First is you motor. A decent to good Hyper Dash will put out 29 to 30k rpm. There are variations in the manufacture and some are better than others. If a Hyper Dash is not 29k or more, it's a practice/give away motor to me. You can also occasionally go up to Mach Dash. But I've also gone the opposite and dropped to light dash and adjusted the car to carry more speed through the track and done exceptionally well.
Rollers need to spin smooth and for a decent amount of time when spun by hand. If not clean or replace the bearings until you are happy. Also, metal vs plastic ringed. Metal will be slower but more grip to keep the car in the track. Plastic ringed will be faster but bad in front because less grip may cause you to course out. The amount of roller material that hits the track also impacts the speed of the car. A thicker contact area will be slower. Reduce the roller contact with the wall along with good spinning rollers will speed up the car quite a bit.
Tires, Super Hard are standard, low friction will be faster but less grip and potential problem for steep banks and lane changers. On occasion I have run just standard hard tires for the extra acceleration over super hard. It all depends on the track. Also, running tires closer to the centerline of the chassis will speed up cornering. Offset tires are a thing some racers use.
Roller position also matters. Rollers that are closer to the center of the chassis will speed the car up through the corners
Run as little brake as you can so you just make the most difficult part of the track. This should mean you are jumping into one or more corner. If you aren't, use less brake.
Batteries, neochamp or Fujitsu pink are lighter which will help acceleration and somewhat top speed on a track.
Recovery, this is a big one. You want your car to land every jump very well with little to no bounce. You want the car to jump straight and not get hung up on the wall at all. If your car is jumps poorly and takes more time to recover, it slows down and allows others to catch up, often very quickly. Along with this is rigid vs non-rigid. A rigid setup will be faster but may not recover very well or crash out easier.
that is a lot of information to go step by step on making a car better thanks you i will apply all these information to my current machine =D
Is there an easy way to break in a motor? If there isnt whats the simplest way
1. using a slave motor. cielshock has a video about that on youtube.
2. breaking in while the motor is being submerged in lighter fluid. theres one video about that by sir Z3n Bluster on youtube as well
3. run - clean - reverse run - clean - run - clean method. basically, you just want your motor to run and curve thos carbon brushes to optimize the speed of the motor
How do you use these? do you need to cut a thread onto the shaft? I am struggling to not bend screws on my roller posts.... it seems that every other race I am bending a roller screw.
Using motor shafts for stabilizer poles is a lot of glue and fitting the shaft into plastic. I have done it but don't feel it's really worth it.
If you are bending screws, buy a set of the cap screws from Tamiya. They are hardened and are very difficult to bend. You can go a year or more without it bending. They are a little expensive but will keep your stabilizer straight for a long time.
Awesome, thanks man. they are the countersunk screws yeah? another trip to the shop!!
They are not the countersunk screws but the black cap screws. They come with a little hex wrench to use with them.
new question for the gurus!
So, is a MS suspension car that much faster than a well damped rigid car?
We dont have any digital tracks in NZ so no flex/susp in the roller stays but plenty of jumps and ramps.
Wondering if it is worth the effort to make the MS Suspension??
It is faster because it recovers from slope section better than rigid setups allowing you to go faster and have more control. Is it worth it? Depends on your level of racing and competition. A year and a half ago in Los Angeles, you could run any chassis in open class and do well. Today, nearly every podium is 3 MS flex cars with a couple FM variants occasionally.
As far as lack of digital turns, the parts to deal with those obstacles are just add ons to any chassis. Rigid setups are okay and a good starting point but sliding dampers have other advantages in absorbing shock from landing deep into corners(such as the track you posted elsewhere and the last turn). a car with sliding damper may be able to absorb some shock from landing in the corner while a rigid car will crash out. The same goes with AT systems and other advanced pieces we use. They are all add ons but can be helpful. But starting out build a rigid car and over time work on the more advanced pieces as you see the need.
My suggestion is to watch some videos and check out stuff on Instagram to get ideas on how to build an open class car. I would start with an MS chassis because they are easy to modify, the drivetrain is simple and strong and even without a flex system it is a very good chassis. At least half the time I try to race my FM cars, there is some problem with the drivetrain and it's just not worth the effort. My MS chassis rarely needs any gearbox work except for cleaning and lubricant.
If you want to go flex system, look at ordering a precut chassis from DXN Provisions. They are very good and build correctly using professional tools. It will save a lot of headaches in trying to make all the cuts and fitting without having someone knowledgeable to assist.
Thanks for that ltr74, that is a good plan. I have had a good run with the FM-A but can see the benefits of the MS next - along with the need for more speed! thank you for your time responding to me recently.
Hi guys! Got a quick question on lock nuts. Are the ones that come in 10's not aluminum (silver ones)? It doesn't say anywhere on the package though but I just want to confirm as the ones that come in 5's are indeed labeled as aluminum. Thanks!
Correct, the 10 packs are not aluminum and are a bit heavier, only the 5 packs in different colors are aluminum
Thanks for the response but i cant find zen blusters video about it can you post the link?
MS Flex provides a safer recover from slops/jumps, but the acceleration after it depends even on how well the MS is built, a saggy one don't really help in the acceleration process.
Sliding dampers sometimes aren't that great when landing on corners, if the jump is too deep the car could course out with a catapult effect.
Obviously the best solution is trying,every track is different.
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